I am a surfer. I don’t mean I have “been” a surfer, or surfed a time or two. No, I am a surfer (humor me, it’s important). I have been surfing for 52 uninterrupted years. As I type this, the surf is going off, and I plan to be in the frigid 50F water very soon.
While reading a book on preaching I came across a quote by one of the most well-known surfers in the world. Well, well-known to serious surfers. Phil Edwards. Born in 1938 he moved to Oceanside, California around age nine making a name for himself at Killer Dana, and especially in 1961 when he was the first to surf Pipeline in Hawaii. I was floored to see a quote from my childhood hero in a book on preaching, but it bears repeating:
“There is a real need in all of us for controlled danger. That is, there is a need for activity that puts us on the edge of life. There are uncounted millions of people right now who are going through life without any sort of real, vibrant kick. I call them the legions of the unjazzed.”
Don’t be a part of the “unjazzed.” Now, go get your Friday.